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Jennifer Merin:Around The World: Cruising The Hurtigruten
For more than a century, the ferries of the Norwegian Coastal Express have been transporting passengers and freight back and forth between the quaint, isolated port towns along Norway’s ruggedly scenic western and northern coasts.Deemed by many to be among the world’s most splendidly beautiful coastal itineraries, the service-oriented ferries have been adopted by tourists seeking a unique and splendid cruising experience.
Northbound, the voyage takes seven days, southbound, it’s six. And, of course, there’s the eleven-day roundtrip option. Two factors of the cruise set it apart from all others: First and foremost, from the shipboard vantage point, coastal vistas are absolutely breathtaking.
And, second, the trip offers unparalleled opportunities for tourists to meet Norwegians -- the Tors and Henriks who’re doing their daily commute from one town to another or who -- like you -- have come aboard to soak up the ultra spectacular scenery.
It’s a fabulous trip--one that should not be missed. But if you call your travel agent to book, don’t request the Norwegian Coastal Express -- it no longer exists.
Well, actually, the company and ferries exist, but several years ago, the name was expunged and replaced with a new one: Hurtigruten (or, HER-te-grew- ten, and if you think that’s hard to say, try pronouncing the name of Hurtigruten’s original parent company, Vesteraalens Dampskibsselskab).
Hurtigruten means ‘express (or fast) route’ in Norwegian, and when the service was initiated in 1893, that was an accurate description of the route. Its inauguration was actually a tremendous boon for the many isolated communities that are tucked between innumerable and always majestic fjords. It meant that mail en route from central Norway to Hammarfest, for example -- that had taken up to three weeks for delivery during the summer (or up to 5 months during the winter) -- could now reach its destination in just seven days. Essential and luxury goods, too, were more rapidly transported. And, visiting relatives or workers who were hired for short term projects. Yes, Hurtigruten brought about a real revolution in life style.
Then, the voyage was still somewhat treacherous during winter months, but the Norwegians are terrific sailors and the sturdy ferries have operated non-stop 365 days a year since the service started up. At present, the ships are, of course, outfitted with reinforced hulls and are perfectly safe for winter voyages, which are considered to be among the most wonderful cruises because you get to see a full display of the mysterious northern lights.
The ships sail almost the entire length of Norway, from the Hanseatic League city of Bergen, southwestern Norway’s center of politics and culture, to Kirkenes in the country’s northeast region. Highlights include spectacular Geiranger fjord (during the summers only), and the remote and fascinating Lofoten Islands.
During the 1980s, Hurtigruten began marketing specifically to tourists. Thinking that Americans and other non-Norwegian visitors would have difficulty with the name Hurtigruten, the company began calling itself Norwegian Coastal Express.
To attract tourists, ferries were upgraded to include luxuriously appointed and spacious cabins, excellent restaurants, lively bars, onboard entertainments and other amenities. But, because the vessels are still working ferries, the ships’ onboard atmosphere isn’t quite the same as the floating resort ambience that is to be found on the big passenger cruise liners. Actually, most passengers find the ferries’ ultra casual and easygoing style to be quite refreshing and relaxing.
Altogether, the company runs thirteen Hurtigruten ferries along the Norwegian coast. Most of them were built between 1882 and 2000, but two most vintage vessels -- the MS Nordstjernen (1956) and the MS Lofoten (1964) -- are by far the most popular, but they are not in service full time. However, when you step on board these two wonderful ships, you really feel the history and tradition all around you.
The company’s newest ship is the MS Fram, and it was inaugurated in 2007. It is named for the original Fram, the vessel built by Colin Archer for Norway’s famous explorer, Frijthof Nantsen, when he ventured forth to reach the North Pole.
The modern MS Fram’s technological advances makes it the perfect ship for exploring polar waters, and it follows itineraries along Norway’s coast, as well as in Antarctica, one of the very special destinations that the company added to its route roster several years ago. Additionally, at present, the company offers thrilling itineraries for tourists to exotic and pristine Svalbard (Spitsbergen, with it’s incomparable population of polar bears), Greenland and the Lofoten Islands, as well as to the Baltic and intriguing European ports of call.
But the coastal ferry service itineraries are still the company’s most popular voyages. Because there are a dozen ferries on the coastal route during any given time of year, each port town is guaranteed a visit two times each day. While the ships unload and take on cargo, tourist passengers can wander around the town, see all the historic sites, browse charming shops, grab a munch, hike or bird watch on the cliffs of the nearby fjords.
Of course, in this day and age, the coastal towns are also connected by a ribbon of blacktop, and car may be the fastest route from one to another -- but you can be sure that Hurtigruten is still the most popular way to go.
Copyright 2012 Jennifer Merin
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